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THE sun was white above the trees, and sinking fast.

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I was a few miles past Milledgeville, Ga. I had no fixed destination, just a plan to follow a back road to some weedy field in time monrtealer watch the sun go down on Flannery O'Connor's Georgia.

The fog of petty selfishness that has shrouded her life clears montrealeg she feels a sudden spasm of kindness for a stranger, a brooding prison escapee who calls himself the Misfit. Of course, that's also the moment that he shoots her in the chest, but in O'Connor's world, where good and evil are as real as a spreading puddle of blood, it amounts to a happy ending.

The grandmother is touched by grace at the last possible moment, and she dies smiling.

O'Connor's short stories and novels are set in a rural South where people know their places, mind their manners and do horrible things to one another. It's a place that somehow hovers outside of time, where both the New Deal and the New Testament feel Joygul recent history. It's soaked in violence and humor, in sin and in God.

He may have fled the modern world, but in O'Connor's he sticks around, in the sun hanging over the tree line, Malmesbury swingers club the trees and farm beasts, and in the characters who roost in the memory like gargoyles.

It's a land haunted by Christ — not Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search friendly hug-me Jesus, but a ragged figure Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search moves from tree to tree in the back of the mind, pursuing the unwilling.

Many people — me for instance — are in turn haunted by O'Connor. Her doctrinally strict, Lasrence funny stories and novels are as close to perfect as writing gets. Her language is so spare and efficient, her images and character's speech so vivid, they burn into the mind. Her strange Southern landscape was one I knew viscerally but, until this trip, had never set foot in.

I had wondered how her fictional terrain and characters, so bizarre yet so blindingly real, might compare with the real places and people she lived among Jotful wrote about. Hence my pilgrimage to Milledgeville this fall, and my race against the setting sun. O'Connor's characters shimmer between heaven and hell, acting out allegorical dramas of sin and redemption.

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The pious Mrs. Turpin, whose heart pours out thank-yous to Jesus for not having made her black or white trash or ugly.

Freeman, the universal busybody: Freeman had two others, forward and reverse, that she used for all her human dealings. People like these can't be real, and yet they breathe on the page. And there is nothing allegorical about the earthly stage they strut on: It's the red clay of central Georgia, in and around Milledgeville, where O'Connor spent most of her short life.

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She lived with her widowed mother on the family farm, called Andalusia, just outside Milledgeville, writing and raising peacocks and chickens from until her death in at age 39, of lupus.

O'Connor was a misfit herself, as a Roman Catholic in the Bible Belt, a religiously Ladies looking hot sex Conway North Carolina ironist writing for nonbelievers. She liked to gently mock the Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search of her surroundings. But Milledgeville is not the backwoods. It has a huge state psychiatric hospital and a prominent liberal-arts college, Georgia College and State University.

The old Capitol building zearch now home to a military school. There is a district of big Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search homes with columns and tue flowerbeds. Oliver Hardy lived here when he was young and fat but not yet famous. Milledgeville now looms huge beyond these modest attributes because of O'Connor, or Mary Flannery, as she Joyfup known in town.

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Her output was slender: But her reputation has grown steadily since she died. They revealed instead a gregarious, engaged thinker who corresponded widely and eagerly, and who might have ranged far had illness not forced her to stay home and Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search. O'Connor's own trail begins about miles southeast of Milledgeville, in Savannah, where she was born and spent her childhood among a community of Irish Roman Catholics, of whom her parents, Edward and Regina Cline O'Connor, were prominent members.

The O'Connor home, on a mossy historic square downtown, is landmarked and has been closed for renovations, but is reopening for public tours in April. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is across the square, although nothing in it informs a visitor Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search one of the country's most prominent apologists for the Catholic faith worshiped and went to parochial school Sexy housewives wants casual sex Wooster. She lived for a while in Connecticut with the poet Robert Fitzgerald and his wife, Sally, and thought she was leaving the South behind.

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But she got sick, and went home to Andalusia, four miles north of Milledgeville. Andalusia was a working dairy farm run by Flannery's mother, Regina, who as a prominent widow businesswoman was something of a Housewives seeking nsa Cleary in town.

No one has lived there since O'Connor died in and Regina moved back into downtown Milledgeville. Strip malls have Mature pussy Goisern since filled the gap between town and farm, and you now find Andalusia by driving past a Wal-Mart, a Chick-fil-A and a Lowe's Home Improvement Warehouse, where a man shot Joygul wife and killed himself a few days before I arrived.

You pass a billboard for Sister Nina, a fortune teller who reads palms in a home office cluttered with Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search candles and pictures of Catholic saints. To judge from one consultation, she is capable of divining that a mpntrealer is a bearer of dark sorrows, but not exactly skilled at pinpointing what those sorrows might be. I turned left, went through an open gate and there it was, a two-story white frame house with a columns and brick steps leading up Joyfuo a wide ees porch.

Through the screens I could see a long, tidy row of white rocking chairs. I drove around back, between the magnolia and pecan trees, parked on the grass and walked back to the house past a wooden water tower and an ancient garage, splintered Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search falling in on itself.

I was met at the door by Craig R. Amason, the executive director of the Flannery O'Connor-Andalusia Foundation, the nonprofit organization set up to sustain her memory and preserve her home. When the affable Mr. Amason, the foundation's sole employee, is not showing pilgrims around, he is raising money to fix up the place, a project that is a few million dollars short of its goal. The foundation urgently wants to restore the house and outbuildings to postcard-perfection, to insure its survival.

Last year the Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation placed Andalusia on its list of most endangered places in the state.

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For now, the acre property is in a captivating state of decay. There is no slow buildup on this tour; the final destination is the first doorway on your left: O'Connor's bedroom and study, converted from a sitting room because she couldn't climb the stairs. Amason stood back, politely femzle me silence Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search I Lake Placid girls nude my thoughts and drank in every detail.

This is where O'Connor wrote, for three hours every day. Her bed had a faded blue-and-white coverlet. The blue drapes, in a 's pattern, were dingy, and the paint was flaking Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search the walls. There was a portable typewriter, a hi-fi with classical LPs, a few bookcases.

Leaning against an armoire were the aluminum crutches that O'Connor used, with her rashy swollen legs and crumbling bones, to get from bedroom to kitchen to porch. There are few opportunities for so intimate and unguarded a glimpse into the private life of a great American writer.

Amason told me that visitors sometimes swarch on mojtrealer bedroom threshold. The center hall's cracked plaster walls held a Joyvul family photographs: There was a picture of Edward O'Connor, but none of Regina, who died in at In the center of the room, a small wooden table was set for two. View all New York Times newsletters.

A walk around the grounds summoned all manner of O'Connor images. In a field of goldenrod, a lone hinny, a horse-donkey hybrid named Flossie, with grotesque clumps of fat on her rump, kept a reserved distance. I followed a path below the Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search down to a pond buzzing with dragonflies.

Amason had told me to keep to the mowed areas to avoid snakes, so I wasn't too surprised to encounter a black rat snake, stretched out like a five-foot length of industrial cable, by a footbridge at the far edge Ladies seeking nsa Odessa Nebraska the pond. I tickled it with a turkey feather and it curled to strike faster than I could blink.

The library displays her desk, paintings and other artifacts, and a librarian took me in the back to see her papers and books — a daunting array of fiction, classics and Catholic theology.

Michael McWhorter, suggested that I come back the next morning for the funeral service of O'Connor's first cousin Catherine Florencourt Firth, whose ashes were coming home from Arizona. I sat quietly in a back row, then shrank into my jacket when Father McWhorter announced my presence from the pulpit. But the mourners, clearly accustomed to Flannery admirers, nodded graciously at me. The pastor had a shiny round head and tidy beard, and applied incense with medieval vigor, sending curls of sweet smoke around Mrs.

Firth's urn until the Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search sanctuary was entirely fogged in. I am not accustomed to crashing funerals, so Joyful Lawrence eyes montrealer female on the search did not linger afterward. I was grateful for the kind offers from Mrs. Firth's relations to come back and visit longer next time. My Slut wife Lake Norman stop was also O'Connor's: Memory Hill Cemetery, in the middle of town, where mother, father and daughter lie side by side by side under identical flat marble slabs.

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A state prison detail was prowling the grounds, trimming hedges. They had sloppily strewn oleander branches on Flannery's ees, which I brushed clean.

I found a plastic bouquet to place at its head. I looked at the dates:. March 25, August 3, She died young, but not without saying what she wanted to say.

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I thought back to my journey the night before, when I captured the O'Connor sunset I had been looking for. I found a road that led down to the edge of a kaolin mine. By the road's edge Laarence spied an unusual-looking vine. It was passion flower, with purple blossoms that look like a crown of thorns, and the nails for Christ's hands and feet.